The first two items I've already mentioned in my EK duplicate post. But I'll add some other pictures here. Suwon, and its famous Hwaesong Fortress, described as a worthwhile day trip from Seoul, was included also due to its relative proximity back to Incheon and Manu's flight on the Saturday. Thursday was therefore going to be trees and a longish drive. Friday was to tour Suwon and relocate to a near airport hotel for Manu's last night.
Ahopsan Forest
Bamboo groves are this location's main draw. But the forest on the side of a mountain has been tended for generations by the same family. Whilst well tended parks and woodland, whether on public or private land, exist in UK and no doubt the world over, in the UK such places now seem to form part of polarising ideological debate rather than areas of nature to be appreciated. In UK they are too remote, too inaccessible, insufficient parking or toilets, too middle class and non-diverse, and littered. In South Korea - they just exist, for everyone. Disability access is sensible and sympathetic; public conveniences are common place but discrete and well signposted; behaviour is considerate (and if not, there will be elders willing to correct), and you really do feel obliged to take your rubbish with you.
Attorney Woo's Hackberry Tree
So what's the story here? In one episode of this delightful story about a high functioning autistic attorney, the case revolves around a developer wanting to drive a highway through prime arable land. In the end the case, thanks to our alternative thinker, looks at the impact the development would have on this rather splendid tree, which is used to bring other successful arguments to bear. The tree, and the very ordinary location, later became something of a tourist attraction, including for me.
We then had an enjoyable drive some 300 and something km to Suwon, including our first fuel top up, thanks to the help of a patient forecourt attendant, which was just as well since our bank card, which had been such a stalwart to date, was not accepted.
Suwon
Our Thursday night meal in Suwon was another example of something 'authentic' (although I use that word with caution). A famous regional dish was grilled beef rib, called Galbi, but not fancying that we settled on a busy looking seafood restaurant. Once again, a total lack of being able to recognise a restaurant by its 'cover' (menu, name or other clues yet to be adequately deciphered), led to some surprises. After we'd sat down a helpful waiter did come and ask whether (for Manu) she realised her seafood was going to be raw (it was a raw seafood speciality place) and (for me) whether I really meant to go for the spicy seafood ramen. It was getting late and maybe with a hint of stubbornness and desperation, and with help from the waiter, we tapped away at the table mounted digital ordering and payment system; a regular feature in nearly all restaurants! We both thoroughly enjoyed our meals under the curious gaze of other diners.
The next day we squeezed a morning run in in the nearby park, although my heart wasn't really in it. Then we had to check out and move the car to a car park closer to the Hwaesong Fortress wall circuit. Car parks are definitely not as well defined as in the UK. There was parking, but we weren't entirely sure what was private and what had public access. In the end we settled on one, which seemed to indicate a rate per hour, pay on exit, number plate recognition. We then went for a walk, had another 'authentic' meal, served by a lovely lady in a tired canteen sort of place. Again we weren't sure of what we were having but a few boiled veg and mushrooms, with some more fat than meaty bits, and with a couple of 'on the house' wild ginseng roots (although not ginseng as such) later, we went in search of the wall.
The wall itself was an interesting fortification with various bastions and lookout posts and 'secret' entrances, and various other features, each of which had interesting explanations, both in terms of use, design and terminology. It was another good combination of historical sightseeing and exercise, particularly given the heat of the afternoon.
Back at the car, at the exit gate, none of our bank cards worked and it didn't take cash. Resorting to the push button for help routine stretched my abilities. I eventually understood to go to a particular building nearby where a manager would help. As I wondered around for a bit, I eventually recognised the name of the building the assistant had been talking about, and fortunately met the manager as well. He was willing to try to pay and I would give him cash - but he failed also. In the end a third party came over to help, paid by card and accepted the cash. I knew that cards were never going to be fool proof, and accepted that some situations would need working through. Again, challenges to be met rather than avoided at all costs.
Underway again, our final stop was a hotel airport which provided a welcome evening of recuperation before Manu flew back and I settled in to Gangnam. A dinner in the airport felt decidedly east meets west. Manu had a glass of wine and I enjoyed a Carbonara. Very comforting in their familiarity.
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