Museums

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In keeping with the idea this was a cultural visit rather than a holiday, wet days offered an opportunity to go and see some museums whilst also exploring other neighbourhoods. This post briefly covers museums visited. I don't try and provided huge detail because that's all available on line for those interested. Rather I touch on some small or other notable points that caught my attention for whatever reason. Palaces Museum Having ventured out in spite of what turned out to be 3 days of pretty constant rain, The Palaces Museum, adjacent to Gyeongbokgung, was my first museum stop.  Sadly an entire floor of permanent exhibits was closed. However, amongst other things, I came across an excellent digital immersive rendition of a very famous exploratory narrative from the 16th Century, captured in a folding screen landscape painting of the 19th Century.  Follow the link to look at the picture more closely. Of interest, although I may be making a connection that doesn't exist, ...

Music and Culture

One particularly pleasurable aspect of my Korean odyssey is having the time to explore more deeply those things which grab my attention; in other words, learning for pleasure. This post touches on three aspects of traditional Korean culture that provide examples of what I mean.

Gayageum

The gayageum is a traditional stringed instrument which is often seen in historical dramas, either played by Kisaeng, (women from outcast or enslaved families who were trained to  provide artistic entertainment and conversation to men of upper class (wikipedia)) or used by travelling entertainers. As with many Asian musical instruments and ensembles, the sounds can sometimes be difficult to appreciate for ears more attuned to western scales. However, one Gayageum player, going by her stage name of Yageum Yageum, is succeeding in keeping the tradition alive with a crossover into pop. 

A Korea Times interview provides more insight whilst this YouTube video, recorded during a performance in London in late 2023, shows how a young and talented instrumentalist can infect a crowd of thousands through the blending of ancient tones with modern covers.

Haenyeo

The Haenyeo, an extraordinary group of female divers who freedive to harvest molluscs, octopus and seaweed, are an important part of the storyline in the 2023 K Drama Welcome to Samdal-ri. This is as much perhaps to keep the existence of the Haenyeo alive in the minds of Korean society as it is for the story itself. 

A 'Sidetracked' article provides a detailed description of these divers. Like many fascinating and 'traditional' ways of life, it is unsurprising, given how hard and dangerous it is, that it is slowly fading away. Singing has often been a way that physically demanding work binds and supports groups of people, and the Haenyeo are no exception, with a rich collection of folk songs, often complaining about useless husbands. One way of keeping the memories alive is by making these songs available to a wider audience, including tourists, through performances. One such song, a rendition of which I found on YouTube below, features in the drama during a particularly reflective moment. I found this to be haunting, melodic, tender and mesmerizing. 2016 saw the Haenyeo added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List.


물결이 일렁이네                      There's a wave   
추억이 일렁이네                      It reminds me of old memories 
소녀가 춤을 추네                     She's dancing
꽃다운 나이였지                      It was a beautiful age
어느날 저 바다는                     One day, that sea 
엄마가 되었다네                      She became a mother  
내 눈물도 내 웃음도                My tears, my laughter
모두 다 품어줬지                     I embraced everything
나는 바다다                             I'm the sea
나는 엄마다                             I'm a mother.
나는 소녀다                             I am a girl
나는 해녀이다                         I am a haenyeo

Arirang

At one of the Essential Korean online meetings I have attended, Arirang was talked about. Not only is it the title of Korea's international TV broadcast station, but it is also a folk song deeply embedded within the Korean culture and psyche. With a little research I learned there are thousands of versions but no definitive ones. I came across many, from K Pop to full orchestral arrangements, but found one that most accords with my sense of tradition remembered. In addition, I found a good Arirang (TV) YouTube short video on the story of Arirang (the folk song) which provides a very meaningful context to the song. These are shared below. 




Comments

  1. The Haenyeo women are just awesome! and I like the music interludes which give one something to listen to while reading the rest of your post <3

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  2. Thanks Soso. I'll try and add links to relevant music / playlists more routinely.

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